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KD Rig Workshop: Learn the Hair Exit Step by Step
Tie a KD wafter rig with clear step diagrams, a Korda-first component checklist, the two-turn hair exit, water checks and progress saved locally.
Next after the hair rig · 6 practical steps
Get your tackle ready
The KD rig starts much like a hair rig, with one small change: after two turns, move the hair aside and carry on whipping around the shank alone. We'll tie the wafter version from the full guide and check how it settles. If the ordinary knotless knot is still new to you, practise that first; it'll make this much easier.
Where to use it: A size-6 Kurv Shank and knotted 20lb N-Trap Soft wafter rig for a checked clear spot. It has no Kicker, moving ring or compulsory shot. The original pop-up-and-shot variant is separate; don't mix its instructions with this one.
New to this rig? Read the full kd rig guide first, or try the rig selector if you're still choosing.
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Step 1 of 6
Prepare the braid and baited hair
Cut about 30cm of the specified coated braid and strip roughly 8–10cm from the hook end, inspecting for damaged fibres. Tie a small overhand loop in the exposed end, draw it through the actual wafter with a baiting needle and fit the bait stop. The loop should hold the stop securely without splitting the bait. Leave the long working end free; don't cut the finished hooklink length yet.
Check before moving on
The exposed braid is sound and the actual wafter is securely mounted on the hair loop.
Common mistake to avoid
Setting the hair without the bait fitted makes it harder to judge the final clearance.
Step 2 of 6
Position the hook and make two turns
Pass the long working end through the Kurv Shank eye so it exits towards the point. Lay the hair behind the shank and position the wafter just below the bend with a small clear gap. Make two adjacent turns around both shank and hair, starting away from the eye join. Stop there and inspect before adding more turns. Keep the hook steady with its point away from your hand.
Check before moving on
Exactly two initial turns hold the hair, with the bait clear of the bend and gape.
Common mistake to avoid
Continuing the normal hair-rig whipping at this point would trap the hair farther down the shank.
Step 3 of 6
Move the hair clear of the later wraps
Hold the hair out to the side, clear of the wrapping path, while keeping the first two turns in place. Make about five more adjacent turns around the shank alone. Watch the hair throughout: it must not creep back underneath a later turn. The change happens near the eye, not near the bottom of the whipping. If you lose track, unwind and repeat rather than trying to pull the hair through tightened wraps.
Check before moving on
The hair leaves near the eye after the first two turns and is not trapped by the remaining wraps.
Common mistake to avoid
A neat-looking ordinary knotless knot is still the wrong construction if you meant to make the early KD hair exit.
Step 4 of 6
Return through the eye and bed down
Return the working hooklink through the eye so it leaves on the point side. Moisten the braid and draw down smoothly, holding the hair exit in position. Inspect the adjacent wraps and the short supple section above the eye, then pull-test the hook connection with appropriate tools. Check the bait can move without passing across the point. Remake a crossed, slipping or damaged knot before finishing the opposite end.
Check before moving on
The tested knot retains the early hair exit, with clear gape and sound fibres above the eye.
Common mistake to avoid
Don't add a Kicker or moving ring to disguise an incorrect hair exit; neither belongs in this rig.
Step 5 of 6
Finish the hooklink and connect the lead system
For a compatible quick-change connection, slide the anti-tangle sleeve onto the hooklink first, then tie a figure-of-eight loop. Aim for roughly 15–20cm finished length on this clean-bottom example. Seat the loop on the swivel and fully cover the crook with the sleeve. If your complete system requires a direct knot to its supplied swivel, use that specified connection instead; don't force a replacement swivel into a clip.
Check before moving on
The loop is seated, the crook is covered and the connection matches the lead-system instructions. Test every knot with rig pullers.
Common mistake to avoid
A neat-looking knot can still slip. Moisten, bed down and pull-test it; remake any damaged or slipping connection.
Step 6 of 6
Water-test and check the complete setup
Lower the complete baited hooklink into water without holding it taut. The hook must settle down with the point and gape clear; the wafter should not suspend it. Change or carefully trim an over-buoyant bait, then repeat after soaking. Check attachment movement and pull-test the knots separately. Before casting, verify the actual lead system's line-break escape path, venue rules and landing equipment. A water test cannot establish that an unknown fishing spot is clear.
Check before moving on
The soaked bait doesn't lift the hook, attachments remain free and the complete lead system has passed its separate checks.
Common mistake to avoid
Don't test hook sharpness on your skin or cast an untested setup into weed or snags. Repeat checks after damage, a fish or a bait change.
Check the whole setup before fishing
Stick to the version shown while you're learning, and follow the instructions supplied with your tackle. If a knot slips, a part doesn't fit or you're unsure what releases after a break, stop and ask an experienced angler to have a look. Check the fishery rules and the swim too; finishing the steps here can't do those jobs for you.
Need a closer look at a knot? Try our fishing knots guide. The beginner rig guide will help you compare this rig with the other options.
Manufacturer guides
Workshop prepared 21 September 2026. Manufacturer demonstrations may show a different version. Check compatibility before swapping knots, crimps or lead components between setups.