Let's tie a rig
Slip-D Rig Workshop: Tie and Test a Wafter Rig
Build a Slip-D rig with illustrated loop routing, a Korda-first checklist, knot and movement checks, wafter testing and saved step-by-step progress.
Practise the doubled loop · 6 practical steps
Get your tackle ready
Let's make a Slip-D using N-Trap, a micro-swivel and a wafter, just as in the full guide. Watch the route of the doubled braid before you tighten the knotless knot. That's what creates the flexible D. This one doesn't use the multi rig's loop-held hook or the IQ D's melted tag, so follow these steps all the way through.
Where to use it: A clean-spot wafter version using N-Trap Soft, a size-6 Kurv Shank and matched medium Kicker. The preformed Kicker replaces the shrink-tube stage in Korda's demonstration. No spinner swivel, shank bead or crimp is specified.
New to this rig? Read the full slip-d rig guide first, or try the rig selector if you're still choosing.
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Step 1 of 6
Strip and double the hook-end braid
Cut about 25–30cm of N-Trap Soft and strip roughly 10cm at the hook end, leaving spare material for the knot and D. Inspect the exposed fibres, then fold the supple section. Pass the fold through the size-6 hook eye from the point side towards the back. Keep the two loose ends identifiable so you can adjust the loop without twisting the braid or pulling against the hook point.
Check before moving on
The doubled supple braid passes through the eye without force and neither strand is damaged.
Common mistake to avoid
Don't fold stiff coated material into a cramped eye or confuse this doubled loop with a finished multi-rig loop knot.
Step 2 of 6
Route the loop around the hook
Thread the Micro Ring Swivel onto the fold projecting behind the eye. Open the fold over the hook point and around the bend, leaving one strand on each side of the hook. Draw the two loose ends gently until the bait attachment sits behind the shank, around the level of the barb position. Check the route from both sides before securing it. Keep sufficient room for movement rather than cinching the D flat against the hook.
Check before moving on
The swivel is on the flexible loop, the strands follow the intended route and the point remains clear.
Common mistake to avoid
A loop that crosses the gape or leaves both strands on the wrong side must be rerouted before tying.
Step 3 of 6
Secure the D with the knotless knot
Hold the D at the chosen size while making about seven neat adjacent turns with the working hooklink around the shank and tag. Start away from the eye join and keep the swivel clear of the wraps. Return the working end through the eye so it exits on the point side. Moisten, bed down and pull-test. Trim the spare tag carefully without cutting either strand that forms the D, then recheck its movement.
Check before moving on
The knot holds under test and the D can flex with the bait swivel moving freely.
Common mistake to avoid
Don't assume a loop over the point alone secures this rig; the Slip-D still requires its hook knot.
Step 4 of 6
Fit the Kicker without trapping the D
Slide the matched medium Kicker down the free hooklink and seat it over the hook eye. Check that the D and its bait swivel are not caught beneath it and that a short supple section remains beyond the eye covering. Use the preformed part without steaming. Inspect both sides and flex the hook section gently. If the Kicker splits, slips or blocks the D, stop and recheck the component match rather than adding glue.
Check before moving on
The Kicker grips properly while the D and short supple section remain free to move.
Common mistake to avoid
A larger covering can conceal a wrongly routed loop. Inspect first, cover second.
Step 5 of 6
Finish the connection and attach the wafter
Slide on the lead-end sleeve, tie and test the approved loop or direct knot, then secure the connection according to the actual lead-system instructions. Mount the wafter on floss through the bait swivel, using repeated overhand knots around the bait. Check the attachment by pulling gently with the point directed away from you. Work the bait swivel along the flexible D; floss must not bind it to the shank or cover the point.
Check before moving on
Both ends are secure, the bait attachment is sound and the D remains free with the wafter fitted.
Common mistake to avoid
Don't add a shank bead to trap the swivel as on a German rig; the attachment rides on this D.
Step 6 of 6
Water-test and check the complete setup
Lower the complete baited hooklink into water without holding it taut. The hook must settle down with the point and gape clear; the wafter should not suspend it. Change or carefully trim an over-buoyant bait, then repeat after soaking. Check attachment movement and pull-test the knots separately. Before casting, verify the actual lead system's line-break escape path, venue rules and landing equipment. A water test cannot establish that an unknown fishing spot is clear.
Check before moving on
The soaked bait doesn't lift the hook, attachments remain free and the complete lead system has passed its separate checks.
Common mistake to avoid
Don't test hook sharpness on your skin or cast an untested setup into weed or snags. Repeat checks after damage, a fish or a bait change.
Check the whole setup before fishing
Stick to the version shown while you're learning, and follow the instructions supplied with your tackle. If a knot slips, a part doesn't fit or you're unsure what releases after a break, stop and ask an experienced angler to have a look. Check the fishery rules and the swim too; finishing the steps here can't do those jobs for you.
Need a closer look at a knot? Try our fishing knots guide. The beginner rig guide will help you compare this rig with the other options.
Manufacturer guides
Workshop prepared 21 September 2026. Manufacturer demonstrations may show a different version. Check compatibility before swapping knots, crimps or lead components between setups.