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Ronnie Rig Workshop: Build a Spinner Rig

Build a Ronnie spinner rig with matched Korda components, illustrated steps, crimp compatibility checks and a pop-up balance test. Save your progress.

More component checks · 6 practical steps

Get your tackle ready

The Ronnie rig makes more sense once you've laid out the parts. Here we'll pair a size-4 Krank hook and large Kicker with 25lb BASIX Boom and matching 0.6mm Krimps. Work through each connection, check the hook can rotate and test the pop-up in water. Keep to this combination while learning, rather than mixing parts from different versions.

Where to use it: A low pop-up presentation for a checked spot where the boom can settle. It is not weed-proof. Use the specified sizes or follow a complete alternative manufacturer rig; the original 360-degree rig is not the same construction.

New to this rig? Read the full ronnie / spinner rig guide first, or try the rig selector if you're still choosing.

Ronnie spinner rig with boom, retained spinner swivel, hook bead, bait swivel, pop-up and counterweight
A closer look at the parts, not to scale. Open the picture to enlarge it, then follow the steps below for the tying sequence.

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Build-along mode

Work through your rig

Check the component list before starting. You can browse ahead without marking a step complete.

0 of 6 steps checked.

Step 1 of 6

Check the exact component pairing

Lay out the size-4 Krank hook, large Kicker, size-11 spinner swivel, medium Micro Ring Swivel and medium bead. Check the spool says BASIX Boom 25lb / 0.55mm and the Krimps are Small 0.6mm. Read the supplied crimp-tool instructions before cutting anything. Choose another complete rig if your materials differ rather than guessing a crimp size.

Three matched groups: size-4 hook with large Kicker, 25lb BASIX Boom with 0.6mm Krimp, and medium bait swivel with medium bead
Check the exact sizes on the packets. Similar-looking parts are not automatically interchangeable. Open larger diagram.

Check before moving on

The material, crimp and tool are a manufacturer-approved combination and the hook, Kicker and bait-mount parts match.

Common mistake to avoid

A familiar product photo doesn't identify the selected size; check the pack itself.

Step 2 of 6

Make and test the boom loops

Allow spare boom material beyond your intended finished length; roughly 15–20cm is a clean-bottom starting point. Feed one end through a Krimp barrel, through the spinner swivel ring and back through the other barrel to form a small loop. Retain the tag specified in the maker's instructions and compress using the correct tool groove. Make the lead-end loop in the same matched system, adding any required sleeve before closing it. Test each joint firmly with pullers.

Two-barrel crimp route around a spinner swivel ring, visible return tag and a separate pull-test view
Follow the matched tool instructions, retain a visible tag and test both completed boom joints. Open larger diagram.

Check before moving on

Both crimps are correctly formed, the swivel loop can move, and neither tag slips under a controlled pull test.

Common mistake to avoid

Don't use pliers, crush the swivel inside the crimp or keep a joint that moves. Remake it with fresh material and a fresh Krimp.

Step 3 of 6

Attach and retain the hook

Slide the matched large Kicker onto the hook with its narrow end towards the shank and wide end towards the swivel. Seat the hook eye on the spinner swivel crook, then work the Kicker down so the crook is fully enclosed. Check the hook cannot disengage and the swivel still articulates. Keep the point facing away from your fingers while fitting the parts.

Exposed spinner swivel crook through the hook eye, then the same connection enclosed by a large Kicker
The Kicker must fully retain the hook eye on the swivel crook while leaving the swivel free to articulate. Open larger diagram.

Check before moving on

The hook eye is securely retained, the Kicker is intact and the swivel is free to turn.

Common mistake to avoid

A partly exposed crook or loose Kicker is not ready to fish. Use the matched component, not extra glue.

Step 4 of 6

Fit the bait swivel, bead and pop-up

Pass the medium Micro Ring Swivel carefully over the hook point onto the shank, followed by the medium retaining bead. Position the bead around the bend in the intended position so the bait swivel can travel without entering the point area. Mount the pop-up using the needle and floss through the bait swivel ring, then secure the floss with repeated overhand knots around the bait. Pull-check the attachment and move the swivel through its range.

Bait-mount swivel and retaining bead located on the hook, with floss connecting the swivel to a pop-up
Fit the bait swivel before the retaining bead, secure the pop-up and keep the hook point clear. Open larger diagram.

Check before moving on

The pop-up cannot pull free, the bead grips and the bait swivel moves without masking the point.

Common mistake to avoid

Don't use a loose bead or crowd the hook with excess floss. Recheck after fitting a different bait.

Step 5 of 6

Balance the actual baited rig in water

Add a little putty at the boom-side connection near the spinner swivel, leaving its movement clear. Lower the rig into water and adjust the counterweight gradually until the boom stays down and the hook section settles as the intended low pop-up presentation. Observe rather than relying on a fixed putty quantity. Soak the bait and repeat the test because buoyancy can change.

Pop-up above a low hook section in water, boom resting down and a highlighted ballast position away from the moving swivel
Adjust ballast using the actual baited rig, then repeat the balance test after soaking the bait. Open larger diagram.

Check before moving on

The presentation settles consistently, the boom stays down and ballast doesn't immobilise the spinner swivel.

Common mistake to avoid

A pop-up that lifts the whole assembly is not balanced. A bait label alone cannot tell you how this hook and swivel behave.

Step 6 of 6

Water-test and check the complete setup

Attach the boom loop to a compatible lead-end connection and cover any quick-change crook with its sleeve. Use the supplied swivel and its prescribed connection if your complete lead system requires it. Lower the actual baited rig into clear water and watch it settle. The hook point and gape must remain unobstructed. Recheck after the bait has soaked. Separately verify the complete manufacturer's lead arrangement and what can release after a main-line break, including knots, tubing and any leader. Check venue rules and have your net, wet mat and unhooking tools ready. If any part is uncertain, ask the fishery team or an experienced angler before casting.

Three final spinner checks: covered lead-end connection, retained hook connection and water-tested low pop-up
Recheck both retained connections and the soaked presentation. Also verify the complete lead system and fishery rules. Open larger diagram.

Check before moving on

I have tested the connections and bait presentation, checked the line-break escape path and confirmed the venue rules. A tick records my check, not a safety certification.

Common mistake to avoid

Don't test hook sharpness on your skin or cast an untested setup into weed or snags. Repeat checks after damage, a fish or a bait change.

Check the whole setup before fishing

Stick to the version shown while you're learning, and follow the instructions supplied with your tackle. If a knot slips, a part doesn't fit or you're unsure what releases after a break, stop and ask an experienced angler to have a look. Check the fishery rules and the swim too; finishing the steps here can't do those jobs for you.

Need a closer look at a knot? Try our fishing knots guide. The beginner rig guide will help you compare this rig with the other options.

Manufacturer guides

Workshop prepared 21 September 2026. Manufacturer demonstrations may show a different version. Check compatibility before swapping knots, crimps or lead components between setups.